Apparently, we are now in Uyuni. There’s nothing outside to be sure of that, but the bus is now empty and everybody has vanished in the night. I hope we’re in Uyuni!
Julien gets his Bolivian guide, looks for the city, and shows us a little map. We try to find where we are, in vain. There’s ONE important street, near the train station. But where is it?! We walk straight forward, to seek a street that could be on the map. We find one after a few minutes. Left. Left again. Going back. We have no idea of where we are. Left again. We’re almost back at out starting point. A big 30-minutes loop in the cold. Interminable. Tired. Numb. A little tension starts to grow.
Finally, we find a little tent, in the middle of Av. Arce et Peru. There’s a woman here, in a little covered stall. A small tea pot, hot water and coffee. COFFEE! 2 Bs. (~ 0.22 € / $ 0.28). Comfort has a small price.
An other woman walks to us. She seems to own a touristic agency et has the tour we’re looking for. Perfect!
I take another coffee and we enter her agency. I sit on one of the couches and take some blankets that lay on it to warm a bit up (I’ll need 45 minutes to start to feel better …).
Description of the tour, we explain that we don’t whole the whole round-trip but to stop at the end of the first part, at the border … everything seems fine. She leaves, we look around and see many colored sheets on the walls with recommendations from the previous travelers, in many languages, from many countries, with sometimes the name of the agency they thank scribbled and replaced by the name of the agency we’re in. Funny.
She comes back, we negotiate. We agree. YEAH! We won’t have to spend the night here!
We wait inside, in the warmth. 8:30 a.m., we walk out, the Sun has risen, and we head to the “center” of the city. Nothing special to see at the market, but we visit the little stores selling clothes. We’ve seen how it’s cold during the night, and we’re about to spend three days in the desert. We better be ready for that! In Uyuni, by night, temperatures drop around 8°F. COLD.
We start by going at the immigration office to get our Bolivian exit stamp (3 days before we actually exit). Without it, we won’t be authorized to enter Chile. We buy water, cookies, cereal bars: only comforting things! And extra wool sweater, gloves, socks … everything is made of alpaga wool, really warm and soft: necessary things!
Back at the agency.
11:10 a.m., our driver arrives, 40 minutes late. We get on route … till the next corner where we stop to get more companions: Carolyn, Jenny and Felix.
GPS: -20.48196, -66.83809
Uyuni used to be the main commercial platform on South Bolivia, with railroads going to the Pacific, Argentina, and running up to La Paz, the capital. The city has been highly used for mining industry (of several minerals. FYI, the Salar, just a few kilometers away, contains 50 to 70% of Lithium world resources, main component of batteries). In 1940, the mining industry collapsed, and everyone left, leaving everything behind them, like the trains used to convey the merchandise. They’re sill there, nothing moved, and what was once an overexploited platform is now a cemetery.
We go back to Uyuni, then drive to the North, to the “touristic” entrance of the Salar.
Salar de Uyuni
Already talked about it, but I’m gonna get into details now. The Salar de Uyuni is an old prehistoric lake, now dry and which left tons of saline sediments. The Salar is a salt desert. This one, Salar de Uyuni, is the largest one in the world, with a surface of 4,086 sq mi (larger than, for example … Lebanon – 4,036 sq mi). It lays at exactly 12,000 ft alt. “Exactly”, because the place has also the amazing distinctive feature of being one of the most … flat places in the world. Imagine that, on its whole surface, miles and miles, the difference between the highest point and the lowest one is less than … three feet. 100% flat (and, as an amateur astronomer, I searched and discovered that this Salar is very often used to calibrate the altimeters of orbital satellites).
That’s gonna be interesting! And as the first day (and the next ones) will be spent driving, driving and driving even more, I’ll only write about the stops and what’s good to know .
Here. We. Go!
Colchani, touristic village of salt industry
GPS: -20.30121, -66.93783
We start our visit of the Salar with a little stop at Colchani, village of salt operators, where you find … souvenir shops (aren’t they supposed to be at the end of the tour?). Everything is made of salt, from the smallest ornament to the tallest statue of a lama, sculpted in one block, in real (lama) size.
GPS : -20.31399, -66.98384
Few meters after the village, we arrive where the men of Colchani extract the salt. Nothing is automatic, no machinery here, but the trucks to transport the salt to the village. All is hand work, with shovels: break the salt crust, make piles of salt, load and send.
From places to another, the crust can go from a dozen of centimeters (like here) to several meters (more in the center of the Salar).
GPS : -20.242778, -67.625278
A small island of fossilized corral, in the middle of nowhere (I’ll break the record of the use of this expression), in the salt desert, Isla Incahuasi, also named Isla del Pescado (“island of the fish”, guess why …).
It’s the place where we’ll have our lunch.
The island is quite remarkable, because it’s entirely covered with giant cactus, growing one centimeter per year. The tallest ones are now 40 high. Make the calculation (1,200 years, if you’re lazy or not so good in mathematics).
In the desert
After Isla Incahuasi, we go on our route, heading South (it’s the point and name of this Travel Journal, after all), driving on this big salt flat.
Agua Quisa night camp
GPS: -20.56953, -67.64020
4:49 p.m., the day is almost over. The Sun is already low in the sky, it’s time to get warm inside.
We discover our home for the night, completely made with salt blocks: walls, beds, tables, chairs … Nice!
Yummy snack, dinner, and we start to play cards with our friends. We also teach our game to a little girl from there … who just makes us miserable, winning it all. Beginner’s luck .
7:10 p.m. Last pictures outside, and it’s bedtime!